French Food, How I Have Missed You !

I am afraid coming back home with a few more pounds will not be too difficult ! It is almost a rite of passage when traveling to France. But I feel every ounces are worth every bites ! I hit two restaurants this week-end, where I was able to sample some french specialties I particularly like and which are near impossible to find in the US.

On Friday night, I rediscovered duck breast. I suspect french ducks are a different species than the ducks found in american markets, given the size of its breasts. That's the best part of the duck here. Imagine a huge chicken breast, but red meat with a thick layer of fatty skin on one side and a rich gamey flavor. It has enough flavor to be cooked in its own fat, but here it was served with a green peppercorn sauce, some french beans, an oven-baked potato, a small salad, and a vegetable flan. A very good jazz band provided the entertainment to a nice evening, with a full glass of rose wine in hand (Coteaux de Bandol, a local wine).

Magret de Canard, Sauce au Poivre Vert

(Duck Breast with Green Peppercorn Sauce)

On Saturday night, a childhood friend of mine took me to a restaurant he enjoys for its selection of specialties from Provence and the South-West regions of France. It was called "La Boulangerie", or The Bakery, likely because its location in an old bakery building. The place was very small, falling into the category of hole-in-the-wall, and the kitchen even smaller, with just one woman manning pots and pans. The minute I stepped through the door I knew I was in for a local treat. My friend specifically recommended the "Cassoulet", a bean stew with pork and mutton. But we were out of luck, the chef was all out. Another sign of a small, but successful, operation. Plan B was the "gardianne de taureau", a specialty from the Camargues region known for its wild white horses, its bulls, its pink flamingos, and its rice cultures. Bullfights are also common there. Hmmm, now you know where the bull in the plate is coming from. No wasting good meat though. Bull meat is indeed very lean, similar to buffalo, and the flavor is a bit stronger than beef. The raw meat is first marinated in wine before cooking it slowly in more wine with carrots and tomatoes, in a manner similar to Boeuf Bourguignon. The result is a rich meat stew with a strong wine flavor, best consummed with white rice (and here a serving of ratatouille) and a full bodied red wine. In this case, my friend, a wine connoisseur, chose a Vacqueyras red wine that was simply excellent. Supple on the tongue with lots of oak overtones, it complemented the heavy stew dish, and you could not help but drink some more ! Vacqueyras is akin to a Chateauneuf-du-Pape (similar region) or a Gigondas. If you happen to find a bottle, please give it a try.

Gardianne de Taureau avec Ratatouille et Riz de Camargues

(Bull Stew with ratatouille and rice from Camargues)

Vacqueyras Red Wine

A local french cuisine to remember...

Today the action is not in my kitchen but in Chef Olivier Bioteau's from Farm House Cafe in Normal Heights, San Diego.

I have been eyeing the local french restaurant for over a year, with the silent vow of discovering their menu as a celebration for getting a new job. This week my wish was granted ! My faithful sidekick Arnold and I went on Friday, two starving adventurers on the prowl for french food.

Reservation in hand, we got a table on the patio. In retrospect that was a good choice. Too noisy inside for my taste. We got to enjoy the sunset and a night breeze while sharing the charcuterie plate, accompanied with a full glass of Vacqueyras, a french full body yet supple red wine from Provence that will make your head spin. If you like Chateauneuf-du-Pape, you have to try Vacqueyras. The charcuterie plate had several cold cuts from mild to spicy, including garlic sausages, cured duck, and pate, easily shared between two or three people. I wished the bread was better, but you may have to be in France for that :)

For the main course we both chose the alaskan keta salmon. What sold me was the basil puree on top to impart that extra flavoring I like so much. It was served with fingerling potatoes cooked in a broth with onions and spices. The fish was seared, cooked on both sides yet still soft on the inside. As such, it melts in your mouth. Don't make them cook it through !

I was ready for dessert ! I had already drooled on their website in the morning. Setting foot in the restaurant I knew what was going to end a delicious evening. The Almond Panna Cotta ! The website picture exactly depicts what was delivered in front of me. Spoon in hand I dove into pure creamy bliss. Texture reminded me of a thick and firm custard. Very sweet and with a definite almond flavor. I slowly enjoyed every bites. Arnold got the peach upsidedown cake with lavender-infused ice cream. It was good, but I liked mine better :)

We were winding down our dinner experience when the hostess, Rochelle Bioteau, generously offered us some champagne at the bar. Our table needed to be prepped for the next guests. Friday is a busy night at the Farm House, and it would be shameful to deprive others from the delices Chef Olivier Bioteau serves in his fine establishment. Then I could not resist, I asked her to try a small piece of her husband's homemade chocolates. She gracefully complied, with a knowingly smile. Ah, yes, our evening was truly complete. Try the chocolates if you can!

Olivier, Rochelle, you'll see me again but I won't wait for another job opportunity to steer me your way.