Ono Ice Creams !

Ono means "tastes good" in hawaiian, and Dave's hawaiian ice creams are a good example of what ono means. Made locally, the ice creams comes in unique flavors like haupia (coconut pudding), macademia nuts, ube (sweet potato), lychee, coconut macademia, hawaiian mud pie...the list goes on.
Today I made a special detour to the shop in Waimanolo, HI, to try three flavors (picture below). In purple blue is ube, made from the purple sweet potato. It has a sweet taste, but not too strong, and the flavor is truly unique to Hawaii. A must try ! In white is lychee sherbert, too sugary for my taste. Underneath is toasted macademia nut. Very good mac ice cream with lots of toasted nut chunks, highly recommended.

Aloha !

My posting of personal recipes will be on hold until I return from a Christmas vacation in Honolulu, Hawaii. But it does not mean I would let you down ! Hawaiians love to eat. Honolulu is full of restaurants, from the hawaiian plate hole-in-the-wall to the newest trendy (and crowded) places. The islands are literally at the forefront of asian cuisines with major exposure from China, Japan, Korea, Thailand or the Philipines. It's a smorgasbord of flavors !

Here is a list of my personal favorites, in no special order:

• any poke with ahi tuna, smoked octopus, mussels, or smoked marlin (I can just eat that day and night, who needs vegetables ?)
  
• seaweed salad (I guess that would make that my vegetables, right ?)
  
• an pan (chinese brioche filled with red bean paste, great for breakfast and the after-beach snack)
  
• Ted's haupia cream pie from Ted's bakery. Huge (at least two knuckles) layer of coconut pudding crowned with whipped cream. It's rapture on a thin layer of dough!
  
• Dave's hawaiian ice creams (taro, haupia, sweet potato especially!). Too bad the Honolulu store I knew closed.
  
• Dole plantation's pineapple ice cream. No travel on Oahu is complete without a trip to the Dole plantation. Not for the maze, the garden, the koi pond, or the store (all tourist traps imo), but for the absolutely delicious pineapple ice milk. Forget the sugar, it's pure pineapple flavor, period.
  
• mochi ice cream (just had a taste of a good one at Shirokiya today, cherry-blossom flavor!)
  
• and my latest discovery, huge cream puffs from Beard Papa's ! The chocolate cream reminds me of a mild chocolate mousse. What's more fun than linking the oozing cream off your fingers (or someone else's !!!! wink, wink).
  

And for the little time left when I don't eat, I go snorkeling. Enjoy the picture !

Parrotfish at the spa, curtesy of a cleaner wrasse

Flan can be a great dessert too !

Flan aux Oeufs (egg flan)

I love flan ! It's that light sweet texture that dissolves in your mouth, leaving an eggy-milky taste behind. It does not make you full, yet it satisfies your sugar craving. Perfect! Add some caramel and maybe a light biscuit soaked with extra flavors and you just made a great dessert to top a heavy meal. I recently discovered the mexican version at the local mexican store. Texture is much heavier, likely from flour or corn starch. It's delicious but this one will fill you up !

My recipe is quick and easy. Never one to waste, I usually make flan to use up leftover milk before it gets bad. Either that or I make crepes :) I added some lady fingers to it to spruce it up a bit, both visually and for taste. By the way, here are, in my opinion, the three wonders of lady fingers: you can buy them cheap, they are small and easy to arrange, they will soak up anything you throw at them. Don't be surprised if you see more of them in my recipes, I always have a box handy at home! Here, I used diluted Grand Marnier to flavor the lady fingers. During baking, the alcohol dissipated but it left behind a faint orangy taste that I love. And the lady fingers were all soft and moist from absorbing the cream. Pure Heaven!

Ingredients:

• 4 cups of whole milk
• 5 eggs
• 1/2 cup of sugar
• vanilla extract (1/4 teaspoon)
• 8-10 lady fingers
• 1 teaspoon of your favorite liquor (optional)

Directions:

1. Preheat the oven at 320F.
2. Beat the eggs with vanilla extract.
3. Boil the milk with sugar.
4. Add the hot milk to the eggs in small portions (to avoid curling) while stirring with a whisk.
5. Dilute the liquor with water (to your liking!) and quickly dip the lady fingers. Don't soak them or they won't absorb the cream anymore.
6. Place the lady fingers in a pan made of porcelain or pyrex and pour the warm cream on top. Let the lady fingers absorb the liquid for 15 minutes, then bake at 320F in the oven for 45 minutes.
7. Serve warm or cold. Fresh berries are great accompaniments.

Chocolate Cake Pudding...

...or How to Recover from a Kitchen Accident and Look Fabulous !


Don't you hate it when you make your best cake ever, right on time so it will be slightly warm when served, and kaboooom ! You drop it ! We all have those horror stories. They are all too real, unfortunately. But I find that's in the face of adversity that we can make huge leaps in creativity. Let me share my story, which happened this past week-end...


I was pumped, ready to make my sin-delicious chocolate cake for the ceramics studio opening, Clay Associates. I stopped at the grocery store on my way from work to stock up on eggs (good thinking in retrospect!), and once home I started at once. Cake batter was ready in 20 minutes following the recipe on my previous post. I even added some clementine rind (out of oranges) for extra flavor (great combo !). I baked the cake for 30 minutes, it looked good, it smelled good, I was on a roll. I took it out of the oven, the kitchen towel I used to grab the pan slipped thus exposing my ring finger to the hot pan. Surprised, I screamed well-placed expletives while dropping my creation upside down on the lowered oven door! Followed by 10 seconds of silence, a minute of self-cursing, then heavy sweat. "What am I going to do ?" I could easily salvage the cake but it was in no shape presentable anymore.

What ensued was the longest 5 minutes in my life. I was processing thousands of ideas in my mind to turn my proverbial lemons into lemonade. I settled for the quick and easy, as I was running out of time. I made my first pudding !

You see, pudding originally is recycled bread, old bread that's too hard to eat. It is crumbled and soaked in a sweet egg-based cream to find new life as a warm dessert, excellent with ice-cream. Suddenly, it was the perfect solution for my problems.

Here is what I did.

1) I boiled a pint of half and half with a pint of fat-free milk (normally I would simply boil whole milk but I was out) and 1/2 cup sugar.

2) I beat 4 eggs and slowly added the warm milk to it while turning.

3) I added some vanilla flavor (1/8 teaspon) (it's optional and can be substituted with your favorite flavoring including alcohols!)

4) I crumbled the chocolate cake in small pieces and let them soak in the egg cream for 20 minutes

5) I transfered the mixture into a greased loaf pan and baked at 320F for 45 minutes.

The pudding was still warm when I brought it to the studio. It was an instant hit and disappeared quickly ! Light, soft, chocolatey with a smooth orangy flavor, not too sweet, it was divine, or as one guest told me "one bite and I went to Heaven!". Best compliment ever !

Tired of the same old pumpkin pie ?

Thanksgiving has come and gone. Neighbors and family gathered for a huge feast of oven-baked turkey, Randy's secret stuffing, honey ham, marshmallowed sweet potatoes, and peruvian potato stew, to stir the melting pot that is America. I brought dessert!
I knew what I was up against. Like every year, the store-bought pumpkin pie invariably makes its appearance on the dining table, plain or with a puff of whipped cream in the center. It is a Thanksgiving staple that will never go away, whether you like it or not. I like my friend Ryan's sweet potato pie better. Maybe because it is homemade, with a recipe passed along the generations. It fits with the tradition of a homemade meal that the entire family helps prepare.
What did I bring, do you ask ? Well, I wanted to go for another seasonal fruit, the apple. And I wanted something that could hold up to a rich and satisfying meal without topping over the glucose level. By the end of a Thanksgiving meal, you can't taste sugar anymore but you can still appreciate texture ! I decided to modify my apple tart recipe by caramelizing the apples first and surround them in frangipane on a thin bed of chocolate. I present you the Apple Frangipane Tart !

Apple Frangipane Tart

It is a deep-dish style tart with sweetened apple slices and a light almond crust that is best consummed warm with a dollup of whipped cream. The almond filling will remind you of macaroons, but softer. To the recipe !

Ingredients (for a 1.5" deep 10" tart):

frangipane filling:

• 1/2 cup butter
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1 cup almond flour
• 1 tbsp white flour
• 1 egg
• 1/4 tsp almond extract

Preparing the apples:

• 6 apples, peeled, cored and cut in eights
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 1/4 cup butter
• 1/4 cup rum

For the crust:

• 1.5 cup flour
• 3/4 cup butter
• 1 egg
• a pinch of salt
• 1/4 tsp vanilla extract

Directions:

1. Prepare the crust as directed in this post.
2. Melt 1/4 cup of 60-70% chocolate on low and pour it on top of the uncooked crust in a thin layer. Let it cool down in the fridge until the chocolate is solid again.
3. Frangipane: beat the butter and the sugar to a white froth, mix in the flour, the almond flour, the egg and the almond extract until smooth and homogeneous. Set aside.
4. To caramelize the apples: in a wide pan, first melt the butter and sugar on a low setting, then add the apple slices and cook them covered on medium heat. Once they have grown soft, remove the cover, add the rum and reduce the liquid (apples give out a lot of water!) until the apples start browning a little. Limit your stirring to a minimum to keep the slices whole.
5. Finish the tart by pouring a layer of frangipane on top of the chocolate layer and adding the apple slices on top of the frangipane. Do not worry too much about arranging the slices neatly, they will slowly sink into the frangipane under heating and some will disappear under.
6. Bake at 370F for 45 minutes.
7. Serve the tart warm with some whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.
8. To make whipped cream: pour a cold pint of heavy whipped cream into a chilled bowl, add 2-3 tbsp of powdered sugar and beat it on high until firm. Do not overbeat it or it will turn into butter !!! I recommend the "finger test". Dunk the finger and give it a taste!

Enjoy !

How disturbing...the truth behind the food we eat ?

Last night, I sat down with the dog on the lap to watch a movie that gathered some good reviews: Food Inc. I was engrossed, and grossed out, for 90 minutes. Even the dog was quiet!

You see, Food Inc is not so much a movie as it is an investigative documentary. Think Michael Moore with less drama and more plain facts. The whole premise of the documentary is to "lift the veil over the whole food industry". Basically the consummer is being blinded by packaging, with the intention of disconnecting, say the animal from the finely sliced piece of red meat. With no more bones in view and a cute smiley cow face on top, it's hard to think of the living and breathing animal who gave it all. But the director did not dwell much on that particular issue. He was more interested in how the food industry evolved to accommodate the mass market and the consequences that are plaguing our society today. For example, the movie swiftly demonstrates the connections to rocketing mass food poisonings, increasing diabetic population, the loss of consummer choices and even illegal immigration. With only a handful of big corporations controlling the food market, a lot of power, both financial and political, is shared by a few, and their actions, entirely motivated by money and business, basically control what we eat. No big surprises here to hear it is a business. But when the dots get connected to direct society and health issues, that's when it gets scary ! And the tactics employed by some companies (think GMOs !) to make farmers comply are plainly disgusting.

The movie does, however, have a positive message to give to us, the consummer. Be more alert of what you eat ! State your preference for fresh and healthy by buying organic and local foods ! The food industry is still a business and they will listen to what the consummer wants.

I can say this movie transformed my attitude towards grocery shopping. I won't turn vegetarian yet, but I'll question the meat I buy, definitely leaning towards grain-fed chickens and grass-fed cows. This is what I like about a small country like France, where local and small farming has still a huge impact on the food chain, thanks to huge government subsidies. It's still not a perfect system, but that's what creates all those lovely farmer's markets around the country. We can have it here in this country too if we, as consummers, band together and state our preference.

Mastering the Art of Crepe !

The art of making crepes

A gust of cold wind. A persisting sniffle. A cold bathroom in the morning. Little signs that cold weather is taking a firm grip in our lives, even in sunny San Diego. Suddenly holding a warm cup of coffee, or chocolate, becomes a much-anticipated ritual throughout the day. For me, it triggers another craving, firmly embedded in years of french upbringing: a warm crepe, with my favorite filling, Nutella. When the wind turns cold and the leaves have begun to fall, city streets in France are filling up with all kinds of aromas, most of which come from grilled chestnuts and warm crepes bubbling on hot portable stoves. As a kid I would be mesmerized watching the crepe maker skillfully pour the batter on the hot plate and spread it in a circular motion to create that soft, eggy, thin and large pancake that is called "crepe". At home, we would have crepe nights in the middle of winter. As a student, they would turn into crepe parties, with all kinds of fillings, from ham and cheese to rum-soaked sugar.

So this week-end was a bit cold, and my conditioning kicked in, I was at the stove making a huge pile of crepes ! The crepe recipe is pretty simple, really. Making them however requires a certain dexterity and practice. So before deciding for a crepe party with the neighbors, make sure you know how to pour the batter adroitly, flip the crepe, and deliver it hot and steaming on your guests' plates. Here is the basic recipe, which gives me 20-25 crepes on a 12-inch nonstick pan.

Ingredients:

• 1L or 4 cups of whole milk (don't substitute with reduced fat milk or the batter will be too runny and hell to cook)
• 4 eggs
• 2 cups of flour
• a pinch of salt
• 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil (canola)
• optional flavoring (vanilla, Grand Marnier, rum, orange blossom...)

Directions:

1. Beat the eggs, salt, oil, and a few tablespoons of milk together.
2. Add the flour and mix to get a very heavy dough.
3. Add the milk little by little while stirring until you get a homogeneous batter. I use a whisk to break up the clumps.
4. Let the batter settle for 1 hour in the fridge before using. If it gets too heavy you can add some milk to it just before use.

To make a crepe: (Note to self: a YouTube video would be perfect here!)

1. Choose a nonstick pan, usually Teflon-coated, and grease it with a thin film of canola oil. Personally I rub an oil-soaked paper towel that I use before making each crepe.
2. Preheat the pan on the stove. Medium heat is good. It's easier to make crepes when the pan is really hot. Quite often I screw up my first crepe because it wasn't hot enough. Typically, the crepe ends up sticking too much to the pan and I can't flip it without breaking it.
3. Pour enough batter to cover the entire pan floor in a thin layer. I tend to transfer my batter to an old milk container, it comes out great without the use of a ladle.
4. Wait until the crepe border detaches itself from the pan then gently slide a flat wooden stick under until you feel confident enough you can flip it. This is a critical step when the crepe is fragile and can break easily. You'll likely to spend many attempts there. Practice, practice, practice ! My secret: I use my fingers to flip the crepe ! Quick or you get burned !
5. Once you flipped the crepe, the other side will cook quickly. Transfer to a plate, regrease and repeat step 3 !

Oui, oui, making crepes is an art that every self-proclaimed french cook has to master. Consider it a rite of passage before tackling Julia Child's french recipe book.

For fillings, I'll leave it to your imagination for now. Between sweet and salt-based fillings, it would take another entire post. For immediate craving, I recommend Nutella, jams, jellies, plain sugar with or without a sprinkle of alcohol (Grand-Margnier tastes good here), peanut butter, ice-cream...have you run out of crepes yet ??? :)

I also have a recipe for buckwheat crepes for the health-conscious and advanced crepe-maker. Also another post for later. If you are antsy, shoot me an email and I'll share. For the price of a crepe or two :)